时间:2018年11月21日 02:03:57

Exercise has innumerable health benefits, but losing weight may not be among them. A provocative new study shows that a substantial number of people who take up an exercise regimen wind up heavier afterward than they were at the start, with the weight gain due mostly to extra fat, not muscle.运动对健康有数不清的益处,但减肥可能并非其中之一。一项富有挑战意味的新研究表明,很多人在开始执行体育锻炼计划后体重反而有所增加,更糟糕的是,增加的这部分大多是多余的脂肪而不是肌肉。But the study also finds, for the first time, that one simple strategy may improve people’s odds of actually dropping pounds with exercise.但也正是这同一项研究首次发现了一种可以切实增加人们运动减肥几率的简单策略。As we all know, the fundamentals of weight loss should be simple. Burn more calories on any given day than you consume and, over time, you will lose weight. Theoretically, we can achieve that desirable condition by reducing the number of calories that we take in through dieting or by increasing the number of calories that we incinerate through exercise.我们都知道,减肥的基本原理非常简单。只要你每天消耗的热量多于摄入量,随着时间的推移,你就会越来越瘦。从理论上说,通过节食减少热量摄入或通过运动增加热量消耗都能达到上述理想状况。But in reality, most people do not achieve or sustain weight loss, no matter what method they try.但在现实中,大多数人试遍了所有方法,还是没能达到或维持所希望的减肥效果。Exercise is particularly problematic in this regard. A recent review of studies related to exercise and weight control found that in most of the studies, people lost barely a third as many pounds as would have been expected, given how many calories they were burning during workouts. Many studies also report enormous variations in how people’s waistlines respond to the same exercise program, with some people dropping pounds and others gaining fat.在这方面,运动的问题尤其大。近期的一项关于运动和体重控制研究的综述发现,在大多数的研究中,人们在运动后的体重减轻量,只有按照锻炼消耗的卡路里数换算出来的预期减重量的三分之一。许多研究还报告,即使执行相同的锻炼计划,不同的人的腰围变化之间也存在巨大差异,一部分人的体重减轻了,另一部分人反倒更胖了。Scientists have had little understanding, however, of why exercise helps some people but not others to shed pounds or whether there might be early indications of how people will respond to an exercise routine.但是,对于为什么运动能够帮助某些人甩掉赘肉却对另一些人毫无用处,科学家们仍然没什么头绪,此外,他们也不清楚是否有什么早期指征可以预测,有规律的锻炼对具体的某个人的效果如何。So for the new study, which was published last month in The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, scientists at Arizona State University in Phoenix recruited 81 healthy but sedentary adult women. All of the women were overweight, based on their body mass index, but some were significantly heavier than others. None had exercised regularly in the past year.上个月,《力量与训练研究杂志》(The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research)上发表了一项新研究。在这项研究中,位于菲尼克斯的亚利桑那州立大学(Arizona State University)的科学家们招募了81名习惯久坐不动的健康成年女性。根据身体质量指数(B.M.I.)来判断,她们全都超重,但其中一部分人超重更为显著。在过去一年里,她们均未进行过有规律的锻炼。The women were told that they would be joining a fitness study and would exercise in order to improve their aerobic endurance. The scientists asked the women not to change their eating habits in any way.科学家们告诉这些受试女性,她们将参加一项以增强有氧耐力为目标的健身研究,并要求她们不要对原来的饮食习惯作出任何改变。Each of the volunteers visited the physiology lab at the start of the study and the scientists determined their weight, B.M.I., percentage of body fat, current endurance level, and others measures of health and fitness.在研究开始时,每名志愿者都来到生理实验室,接受了体重、B.M.I.、体脂百分比、当前耐力水平等多种健康和健身指标的测定。Then each woman began a supervised exercise program designed to be vigorous but manageable by most people, said Glenn Gaesser, a professor of nutrition and health promotion at Arizona State and senior author of the study. The women walked on tmills at the laboratory three times per week for 30 minutes at a pace that represented about 80 percent of their maximum endurance.其后,她们开始在监督下执行锻炼计划,而且,据该研究的资深作者、亚利桑那州立大学的营养和健康促进学教授格伦·盖瑟(Glenn Gaesser)称,该计划设计的运动强度很大,但还在大多数人可以接受的范围内。受试女性每周要在实验室的跑步机上完成三次走步锻炼,每次30分钟,且节奏须保持在她们最大耐力80%的水平。They continued the program for 12 weeks, with the scientists repeating the original fitness and other tests every month during that time.整个锻炼计划持续了12周,在此期间,科学家们每月都对受试者们进行一次与开始时一样的健身指标复查。At the end of 12 weeks, the women were all significantly more aerobically fit than they had been at the start. But many were fatter. Almost 70 percent of the women had added at least some fat mass during the program, and several had gained as much as 10 pounds, most of which was from fat, not added muscle.在第12周结束时,这些女性的有氧能力均比开始时显著改善,但其中有不少人更胖了。在整个研究过程中,有近70%的女性体脂肪量增加,有几个人体重增量达4.5千克,且其中大部分是脂肪而非肌肉的增加。A few of the women, though, had lost that much fat or more, and quite a few had remained at the same weight as at the start of the regimen.不过,仍有少数女性减掉了等量甚至更多的脂肪,还有相当一部分女性的体重与研究开始时持平。At this point, the researchers returned to the data from the first day of the study, to determine whether any obvious differences existed between the women who subsequently gained or lost weight. “Some past studies of dieting had indicated that women who weigh more at the beginning” of a weight-loss program “tend to lose more weight during the program,” Dr. Gaesser said.这时,研究人员回过头来审视研究第一天时获得的数据,想要确定后来体重增加或减少的女性之间是否存在任何明显的差异。盖瑟士说:“既往进行的一些有关节食的研究表明”,在减肥计划“开始时体重较重的女性更容易在锻炼期间减肥”。But the researchers found no correlation in this case between a woman’s weight at the start and end of the study. In fact, the scientists found no connection between any of the original parameters of health and fitness and the women’s responses to the exercise program.但在该研究中,研究人员们发现受试女性研究开始时与结束时的体重间并没有这种相关性。事实上,科学家们发现,这些女性在研究开始时的任何一项健康和健身参数与锻炼计划对她们的效果都没有关联。But looking deeper into their data, they discovered one interesting indicator: Those women who were losing weight after four weeks of exercise tended to continue to lose weight, while the others did not.但随着更加深入地研究数据,他们发现了一个有趣的指征:经过四周的锻炼体重有所减轻的女性在后续的锻炼中往往更容易继续减肥,而在其他人身上则并非如此。“What that means in practical terms is that someone who wants to lose weight with exercise” should step on the bathroom scale after a month, Dr. Gaesser said. If at that point your weight remains stubbornly unchanged or has increased, “look closely at your diet and other activities,” he said.“其实际指导意义就是,如果你想要依靠运动减肥,”就应该在锻炼一个月后去浴室里称一称体重,”盖瑟士说。要是此时你的体重还是不见减轻或者反而更重了,“你就得好好注意下你的饮食和其他活动了。”While this study didn’t track the women’s eating and movement habits away from the lab, it is likely that those who gained weight began eating more and moving less when they weren’t on the tmills, “probably without meaning to,” Dr. Gaesser said.这项研究并没有对受试者们的饮食和实验室之外的运动习惯进行追踪,但盖瑟士认为,那些在锻炼后体重增加的女性很可能是食量也随之增加了,而且在跑步机锻炼以外的时间里,她们的运动量更少了,“虽然这应该也不是存心的。”Of course, the study was fairly short-term. It also did not involve men, although some past studies indicate that men, like women, frequently add fat mass after starting to exercise.当然,这项研究的时间相当短,而且也没有涉及到男性,不过此前有一些研究表明,男性和女性一样经常出现在运动后体脂肪量反而增加的情况。Still, the results, while sobering in some respects, also provide encouragement. By deploying a bathroom scale and discipline, along with exercise, you may well lose weight, Dr. Gaesser said.尽管在某些方面,这些研究结果让人觉得减肥大计形势严峻,但它们也为人们指明了希望的方向。盖瑟士表示,锻炼身体,严格自律,加上一只放在浴室里的体重计,你完全可能实现减肥。Even more important, the women in the study were much fitter after four months of exercise, and Dr. Gaesser said “fitness matters far more for health than how much you weigh.”更重要的是,在四个月的锻炼后,参与研究的这些女性的体质都大大改善了。盖瑟士说:“健身的意义更多地在于让你更健康,而不是单纯地要改变体重的那几个数字。” /201412/351176

The zodiac animal of China#39;s coming Lunar New Year has caused much confusion in the English world, as its translation results in at least two candidates: sheep or goat.  中国农历新年即将到来,但今年的生肖却让英语国家的人们感到非常困惑,因为它至少有两种英文翻译:绵羊或山羊。  Chinese folklorists say the animal symbol can be either a sheep or a goat but more likely goat, given the latter#39;s popularity as a farm animal among Han Chinese。  中国民俗学家表示,羊年生肖的象征物既可能是绵羊,也可能是山羊,但山羊的可能性更大,因为在汉族地区山羊作为家畜更为常见。  The Chinese lunar calendar assigns an animal symbol to each year in every 12-year cycle. Yet the Chinese character for the eighth zodiac animal is ;Yang;, which can refer to either of the two ruminants when used without attributes。  中国农历以十二年为周期,每年以一种动物作为象征。十二生肖中的第八个生肖是“羊”,而这个字在没有修饰限定语的情况下可指绵羊或山羊任意一种反刍动物。  Huang Yang, a prominent researcher on the role of sheep/goats in Chinese culture, says tracing the origin of the zodiacal Yang could be difficult, as the Chinese zodiac first appeared after the Shang Dynasty (1600-1046 ), when the Chinese people did not differentiate between sheep and goats in language or in sacrificial offering。  国内研究羊在中国文化中地位的知名学者黄洋称,追寻生肖羊的来历比较困难,因为此生肖最先出现在商朝(公元前1600-1046年)之后,而那时人们在语言和祭祀中是不区分绵羊和山羊的。  Both species have a long history of domestication in China and have appeared on oracle bone scripts and other artifacts since prehistoric times, according to Huang, who in 2012 challenged the saying that Chinese are ;descendants of the dragon; by arguing that the earliest Chinese actually worshipped the meek ruminants。  黄洋称,这两种动物在中国都有着较长的畜养历史,自史前时期开始,就已出现在甲骨文和其他手工艺品上了。黄洋曾在2012年质疑中国人是龙的传人,认为最早的中国人崇拜的是温顺的反刍动物——羊。  ;But if we judge from the fact that the Chinese zodiac is a Han tradition, Yang are more likely goats, which are more common livestock for the Han Chinese,; he tells Xinhua in a phone interview。  在接受新华社的电话采访时,他表示:“但如果我们基于生肖是汉族传统这个事实出发, 则‘羊’更可能指的是山羊,因为对于汉族人来说山羊是更为常见的家畜。”  Shaggy sheep are a common sight in north China#39;s prairies and were domesticated by Chinese earlier than goats, but goats are more commonly raised in areas populated by Han Chinese, Huang says。  他说,绒毛蓬松的绵羊在中国北方的大草原上很常见,其畜养的时间也比山羊要早,但在汉族聚居地山羊更为常见。  Images on China#39;s zodiac stamps and papercuttings are often bearded goats. The replica of the Yang bronze statue that once formed part of a zodiac fountain in the looted Old Summer Palace also has a goat head。  中国生肖邮票和剪纸上羊的形象往往都是带胡须的山羊。而惨遭洗劫的圆明园生肖喷泉一部分的青铜羊首复制品,也是山羊头。  Fang Binggui, a folklorist based in southeast China#39;s Fuzhou City, says the image of the zodiac Yang is open to regional interpretation. ;People depict the zodiac animal based on the most common Yang in their region. So it#39;s often sheep in the north while goats in the south.;  中国东南部城市福州的民俗学家方兵贵称,生肖羊的形象常有区域性的解释。他说:“人们基于当地最常见的羊来描绘生肖羊,所以在北方生肖羊往往是绵羊,在南方却是山羊。”  Few ordinary Chinese are troubled by the sheep/goat distinction。  很少有中国百姓因分不清绵羊和山羊感到困扰。  ;I#39;ve never thought about that question before. Do we have to tell them apart?; asks Chen Xufeng, an office clerk in Beijing。  北京白领陈旭锋说:“我以前从来没想过这个问题。我们有必要区分它们吗?”  ;I#39;ve seen more goats in zodiac images, but I prefer to buy a sheep mascot, as sheep are more fluffy and lovely,; he says。  他说:“在生肖图案里,山羊更常见,但我却更喜欢买绵羊吉祥物,因为绵羊毛茸茸的,非常可爱。”  However, the ambiguity has whipped up discussion in the West. A story run by the Associated Press said this year#39;s animal ;is subject to interpretation;。  然而,这个模糊不清的概念却在西方引发讨论。美联社刊文称,今年的生肖动物还有待解读。  ;We just had this discussion a few weeks ago. What exactly is it?; AP ed a worker in Brooklyn Chinatown as saying. ;It can be a ram, sheep or goat -- any ruminant mountain animal with horns.;  美联社援引布鲁克林唐人街一名上班族的话称:“我们几周前刚讨论过这个问题。今年的生肖到底是什么?它可以是公羊、绵羊或者山羊,只要是山上长角的反刍动物都有可能。”  In England, the Manchester Evening News also posed the question: ;Later this month, we will enter the Chinese Year of the Ram. Or should that be sheep? Or even Goat?;  英格兰《曼彻斯特晚报》也提出了这个问题:“月底我们就要跨入中国农历公羊年了,或者应该叫绵羊年?还是山羊年?”  Other media outlets, including Bloomberg, have described the coming Lunar New Year as the Year of the Sheep, Goat or Ram。  其他一些媒体包括彭社,也已把即将到来的农历新年称作绵羊、山羊或公羊年。  Xiang Daohua, a teacher of Chinese language and culture at China Foreign Affairs University, believes cultural connotations should be taken into consideration in translation。  北京外国语大学[微]中国语言文化学院教师向道华认为,翻译时应该考虑文化内涵的因素。  ;The English word #39;sheep#39; better fits the Yang image in traditional Chinese cultures, which is meek and even a bit weak,; he says。  他说:“英文单词‘sheep’(绵羊)更符合中国传统文化中羊温顺、甚至有点柔弱的形象。” /201502/359593

General Survey概述Chinese culture,known across the world for its uniqueness and colorfulness,has reflected itself in every aspect of the Chinese#39;s daily life,i. e.clothing,food,housing etc. because they are three indispensable elements in Chinese daily life. There ire many special habits,and customs. Those who are unfamiliar with Chinese culture may find these habits and customs intriguing as well as puzzling. Some of the customs associated with these elements are quite unique, such as sifting shoes and feng shui. Some customs are local ones and not shared at a national level .and some customs have different varieties in the specific procedures or some other details.中国文化的蘸性与丰富多是全球闻名的,它在中国的日常生活中得以体现,例如衣、食、住,因为它们是中国日常生活中不可或缺的要素。述才有许多特殊的习惯与习俗。对中国文化不太了解的人可能会发现这些习惯与习俗既富有吸引力、又令人迷惑。与这些要素有关的某些习俗十分特殊,例如筛鞋与风水。某些习俗是地方习俗,它们不是全国范围性的,而有些习俗则在具体的步骤或其他细节方面存在差异。 /201505/377319

It is an iconic image: Queen Elizabeth in her royal carriage, gently waving a graceful gloved hand.这是个标志性形象:女王伊丽莎白戴着优雅得体的手套,坐在皇家马车上轻轻地挥着手。Few of us can live like a queen, but we can wear that glove.我们没几个人能像女王那样生活,但那样的手套还是戴得起的。Or the pure merino wool pair worn by the duchess of Cambridge, or the singer Rihanna’s long French lace ones, or even the opera-length satin sheaths that set off Lady Mary’s gowns in “Downton Abbey.”或者是剑桥公爵夫人戴的那种美利奴羊毛手套,或者是歌手蕾哈娜(Rihanna)的法式蕾丝长手套,或者是《唐顿庄园》(Downton Abbey)里给玛丽(Lady Mary)的礼添的长袖绸缎手套。Each of these gloves was sewn in a converted cowshed on a farm in East Sussex, under the direction of the willowy Genevieve James.这些手套都是缝制于东萨西克斯一个农场里经改造过的牛棚,领头的是身形窈窕的吉纳维芙·詹姆斯(Genevieve James)。Her gloves are not heavy workaday leathers for bracing against the harsher elements but elegant accessories for women willing to pay, say, 360 pounds, or 0, for the added panache of a pair of full-length pure-wool gloves cuffed with silver fox fur.她的手套不是抵御寒冷的厚重工作皮革手套,而是为愿意花大价钱让自己大放异的女人设计的优雅配饰,比如,袖口镶饰银狐毛的纯羊毛全袖手套的售价为360英镑(约合3460元人民币),约合570美元。As design director of Cornelia James, the company founded by her mother in London in 1946, Ms. James is working to keep the British glove-making heritage alive and to expand to a broader international market.詹姆斯是科妮莉亚·詹姆斯(Cornelia James)公司的设计总监。该公司是她母亲于1946年在伦敦创立。她的目标是延续英国的手套制作传统,把它推向更广阔的国际市场。“Mum was great,” Ms. James said over a steaming cup of milky tea in the atelier, as sheep grazed outside. “She was an Austrian Jewish refugee who had to get out very quickly from Vienna in 1939.“我妈妈很了不起,”詹姆斯在工作室里端着一杯热腾腾的奶茶说道,窗外有绵羊在吃草。“她是来自奥地利的犹太难民,1939年匆忙逃出了维也纳。”“But mother had just finished studying fashion design at the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts, coincidentally the same college that turned down Hitler. So she came eventually to England with a suitcase full of the colored leather that she had been using to make things.”“妈妈当时刚在维也纳艺术学院完成装设计的学业,巧的是,当年也正是这所学院拒绝了希特勒。她辗转来到英国,箱子里装满她做设计用的各色皮革。”War was starting and while people had no money to buy couture clothing, Ms. James said, they could afford a handbag or gloves. Her mother survived the war years making and selling those.詹姆斯说,战争开始了,人们没钱购买高级定制装,但他们还买得起手袋或手套。她妈妈靠制作和销售这些东西挺过了战争岁月。Her breakthrough came after the war. She caught the attention of the royal couturier Norman Hartnell, who was designing Princess Elizabeth’s dress for her marriage in 1947 to Lt. Philip Mountbatten.战后,她的事业迎来转机。她引起了皇室裁缝诺曼·哈特内尔(Norman Hartnell)的注意。后者当时正在为1947年伊丽莎白公主与菲利普·蒙巴顿中尉(Lt. Philip Mountbatten)的婚礼设计礼。“My mother was invited to design all of the gloves for her trousseau,” Ms. James said. “Unlike these days, when you went on your honeymoon on the royal yacht you needed several pairs of gloves. This was really the start of her association with the royal family.”“我妈妈被请去给女王设计嫁妆里的所有手套,”詹姆斯说,“那时候跟现在不同,乘坐皇家游艇度蜜月时你需要好几双手套。这真的是她与皇室交往的开端。”Decades later, in 1979, the business was awarded a royal warrant, the mark of recognition for suppliers to the monarchy.几十年后,这家公司在1979年获得英国皇室供货认。Cornelia James died in 1999 at age 82. In the 1950s, at the peak of her long career, she had 250 workers under her wing in a former dairy in Brighton.1999年,82岁的科妮莉亚·詹姆斯去世。20世纪50年代,在她漫长事业的巅峰期,她麾下有250名工人在布赖顿的一个奶制品厂改造的车间里工作。But the popularity of gloves as a fashion accessory waned and the business now has just three sewers, known as machinists, working in tandem with Ms. James and her husband, Andrew Lawson. Mr. Lawson measures and cuts the fabric in the atelier, where bolts of fine wool lean against the walls and bobbins of colorful th occupy rows of shelves under bright overhead lights.但是,手套作为装配饰的潮流衰退了,这家公司现在只有三名裁缝,称为机械工,他们和詹姆斯及其丈夫安德鲁·劳森(Andrew Lawson)协同工作。劳森在工作室里测量、剪裁面料,一匹匹细羊毛靠在墙边,一卷卷色丝线摆放在一排排架子上,天花板上是明亮的顶灯。Here they make bridal gloves of lace, cotton, duchess satin or silk that sell for #163;130; stylish cotton race-day gloves for the Ascot set (up to #163;130); and fine wool pairs of the type a royal might wear to a ribbon-cutting event (up to #163;155). There’s also a cotton “Camilla” glove in a black and white yin-yang pattern (#163;110) and a taupe merino wool “Beatrice” with a demure bow atop the wrist (#163;70).他们在这里生产用蕾丝、棉、素库缎或丝绸做成的新娘手套,售价130英镑;时髦的阿斯科特赛马会(Ascot)比赛日棉质手套(最高130英镑);皇室成员参加剪仪式可能会戴的细羊毛手套(最高155英镑)。还有黑白八卦图案的棉质“卡米拉”(Camilla)手套(110英镑);手腕上镶着端庄蝴蝶结的灰褐色“比阿特丽斯”(Beatrice)美利奴羊毛手套(70英镑)。Evening gloves can be opera length and lacy (#163;66), in fine netting (#163;100), or duchess satin trimmed with Swarovski crystals for the red carpet (#163;130).晚装手套包括蕾丝长袖手套(66英镑)、细网眼手套(100英镑)以及走红毯用的镶有施华洛世奇水晶的素库缎手套(130英镑)。For more practical wear, a line of colorful cashmere gloves, made from best-quality yarn and knitted in Scotland, sells for #163;65. There is also a newer line of Italian-made nappa leatherski gloves and deerskin mittens (#163;260 a pair), lined in possum fur.更实用的手套包括在苏格兰用最高档的色羊绒制作的系列,售价65英镑。还有一个新系列——边缘镶有鼠貂毛的意大利软羊皮手套和鹿皮连指手套(一双260英镑)。While members of the royal family are appreciative and loyal customers, Mr. Lawson says, the company cannot depend solely on the queen.劳森说,虽说皇室成员是他们十分感激的忠实顾客,但公司不能只靠女王。“The queen is very, very, very cost conscious,” he said, clearly trying not to cross a line by saying so. “And our gloves are obviously quite expensive. So she will send them back to be repaired if they lose a stitch. One year she might have 20 pairs and the next year none, and the next year 15. And she never loses them, which is why most people order new gloves. She’s still wearing certain gloves of ours that we made 15 years ago.”“女王非常、非常、非常具有成本意识,”他这么说显然是不想得罪皇室。“我们的手套显然十分昂贵。所以如果手套脱线,她会送回来修补。某一年她可能会买20双手套,下一年可能一双也不买,再下一年可能又买15双。她的手套从来不丢,很多人买新手套都是因为旧的丢了。我们15年前做的一些手套,她现在还戴着。”With two stylish ridges, known as points, and measuring five inches from the base of the thumb up the arm, the queen’s made-to-measure design sells for #163;110. The white gloves are washable, a relief for someone who shakes so many hands.这双女王定制手套有两条时髦的凸条纹棱线,从拇趾跟到胳膊长五英寸,售价为110英镑。这双白手套可以水洗,对于需要经常握手的人来说,这真是让人欣慰。“Yes, she insists on that,” Mr. Lawson said. “It’s one of the reasons she wears fabric gloves rather than leather. When she goes on a trip she’ll have two or three or four pairs because she’s shaking all these hands.”“是的,她坚持要能水洗的,”劳森说。“这是她戴织物手套而非皮手套的一个原因。她在旅行中要准备两双、三双或四双手套,因为她要和很多人握手。”The product that emerges from this bucolic country workshop can’t compete in sheer numbers with the mass production coming out of Asia, but Mr. Lawson says the brand has a distinctive appeal, even in a country like China.单从价格角度讲,这些来自乡村田园作坊的产品肯定拼不过亚洲大批量生产的产品,但是劳森说,这个品牌具有独特的魅力,甚至对中国这样的国家也有吸引力。“We’re never going to compete on price, so we try to do better on quality and integrity of the design,” he said. “In particular, the Chinese are coming to realize more and more that fashion is not just about the big brands that everybody’s got.”“在价格方面,我们永远没有优势,所以我们努力在品质和设计方面做得更好,”他说。“尤其是,中国人越来越意识到,高级时装不只是指人人都能买到的大品牌。”“To them we are their best-kept secret — ‘only I know about Cornelia James and I want to keep it to myself’ — which is nice in some ways, but obviously we’d like for hundreds of millions of Chinese people to be buying our gloves,” he said with a chuckle.“我们是他们保守得最严密的秘密—— ‘只有我知道科妮莉亚·詹姆斯,我想守住这个秘密’——从某种角度讲,这挺好的,但我们当然希望数以亿计的中国人都来买我们的手套,”他轻声笑道。The brand sells “very well in Japan,” Ms. James said, “because we tick all the boxes there: They love the heritage, they love the story, they like a really beautifully made, small product with detail. Japan is our most important customer.”詹姆斯说,这个品牌“在日本”卖得“很好”,“因为我们符合他们的所有偏好:他们喜欢传统,喜欢我们的品牌故事,喜欢做得非常漂亮、具有精致细节的小巧物品。日本是我们最重要的市场。”“Where we’d really like to sell in is the States,” she added. But the changing structure of the retail sector, which is turning many of the once-grand department stores into boutique concession stands, has made it more difficult to interest American store buyers in smaller-margin luxury gloves, she said.她补充说,“我们真的特别希望销往美国”,但是零售业的结构在发生变化,很多宏伟的商场变成了精品专卖店,所以更难让美国的店铺买家们对利润更小的奢侈手套产生兴趣。Meanwhile, the value of the royal warrant has been incalculable.与此同时,英国皇室供货认的价值是不可估量的。“It’s a real door opener,” Mr. Lawson said. “Everyone knows it stands for excellence and quality in what you are doing. And you can’t buy it at any price. It has to be given to you.”“它真的是打开了一扇大门,”劳森说,“所有人都知道它代表着优秀和品质。它是金钱买不到的,只能通过授予的形式获得。”And while the company does make flashy lime-green-and-fuschia items for stage shows like “Mamma Mia,” many of its products are simply, subtly beautiful.虽然这家公司也为《妈妈咪呀》(Mamma Mia)等舞台剧制作黄绿色和梅红色的花哨手套,但它的很多产品是简洁、精妙的美丽物件。It’s a mark of their class that all but the ski gloves, for example, have no external label or logo.除了滑雪手套,这个品牌的手套上没有外部标签或标识——这是档次的标志。“We have a lot of customers who don’t want the branding, who don’t want the showiness,” Mr. Lawson said. “They just want a nice pair of gloves.”“很多顾客不想要商标,她们不想炫耀,”劳森说,“她们只是想要一双漂亮的手套。” /201412/346222

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